A Liberian Journey

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Sun Aug 15^th. Some porters came in today 14 in fact and after many arguments & palavas we pursuaded to carry Dr. Strongs outfit to Kakatown. I must admit that it took a lot of talk to get them to active heat & even then they thought the loads too heavy. But by 900 They got underway & we bid the chief adieu. I promised to follow as soon as I could get porters. Then I sat back with Theiler & waited for Dunbar to return with the promised men. Just about the time I was getting ready to go out bird collecting he did come with 16 men. I hastilly packed up all my things and was off at 1040. I decided this time to walk fast and go right thru letting the men take their own pace so I set off with Dunbar, Colbar, Vani & Momo. The first adventure was crossing the stream by the camp on a high small log about 10 ft above the water & about 20 ft long – I got ¾ of the way over when my boots slipped off the bark & I dropped. But like a cat I landed with my arms across the log, hitched myself up again & lan arrived dry on the other side. So far so good.

                  The trail now passed thru more or less open country with patches of tall trees here and there for about 3 miles to Blonoi – the first town. As we approached I could see several men running into the woods but when I tried to get further porters I was told that they belonged to another chief etc. So I pushed on with my safari. About 5 minutes out we came to a fork in the trail – and both branches were well marked.- However, they said that both went to Kaka town and that the right hand one was the straightest. I told the headman to stay with the porters and see that all kept going and started on ahead with Dunbar, Momo, Colbar and Vani at a good stiff pace. The country was the same as before – second growth forest with occasional sections of taller growth.- Palm swamps were very common & we were constantly wading thru mud or walking extremely small & slippery logs over thick & slimy mud. The only unusual sight was a worm – only a real he worm about 10” long. When not disturbed he went smoothly along as if he had legs but when excited he wiggled like a snake. In color he was an earthworm red fir first 3^rd – then paler for 1/3 and finally a dull blue green. Other wise he was like an overgrown garden variety earthworm. I wanted to capture him but the boys said he was poisonous & threw him away. One good specimen gone. We saw quite a few big hornbills & several big hawks but other outside .of those big game was scarce.

                  I took compass directions about every 5 minutes along the way which are as follows.

Lango town to Blonoi – 1 hr. NWN

Blonoi – to Surmoi (fr.) – 45 min {20-N, 10-EN, 15-NE}

Surmoi – Lobu Kiee place – 20 “ {15-WNW, 5-NWW}

Lobu Kiee – Oula town 24 “ {7-NWN, 5-NWW, 7-N, 15-NNW}

Oula town – Kakatown – 62 “ {36-NNW, 8-WNW, 18-N}

Time – 3 ½ hrs. fast walking.

<Map of route from Lango Town to Kaka Town>

                  The towns passed thru were small and unimpressive so that I did not stop at all but pushed right through. It was also raining hard as I passed through Oulah town. From Lobu Kiee place to Oulah there were many swamps to be crossed on treacherous log platforms which continued after Oulah tho the trail became an open grass road thru very scrub growth. The sun came out later and there was no protection from it so I was very glad to get to Kakatown – with Dunbar panting at my heels & all others left behind.

                  I arrived about 5 minutes after the chief who was in conversation with Daniel Walker – the paramount chief of the section – a big man with a powerful tho bulky frame – graying hair and a distinctly powerful pompous manner. He is considered to be one of the wealthiest natives in Liberia and has a very extensive harem of young girls.

I took a swim in the cr. near the town and it was a great success. In this country however the ladies call out & do not come until you are dressed.

                  His attitude was one largely of what do I get next which was somewhat annoying. However we gave him some tobacco and got rid of him while we set up our beds & got settled. The house was similar to that at Lango town tho much more elaborate and larger with two “rooms”. After supper D.W. returned & we conversed about porters – the preliminaries. As we undressed in the dark we had an admiring audience of damsels of all ages – about 15 of them peering over the half wall of the house. But we had no lights. 

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