A Liberian Journey

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Tues Oct 19^th toil and trouble.

In the first place we fed rice to the porters at 500 and at 730 when we were ready to leave and had already distributed most of the loads the men said their chop was o the fire and they wanted to eat. We asked why they hadn’t eaten during the last 2 hrs and told them to go on – that we would have it brought along. So I started off with them and soon – one man run into the bush leaving a two-man load half stranded. I put a headman under it – and heard that 4 more men had run away from up ahead. I left Mom and Jack Paulo to look after the men and returned to Sordya when I found them loading up the women. I reported the casualties and was asked to escort the 14 ladies but I hadn’t gone 100 yds before I found three loads hastily abandoned and a few crashed leaves showing the direction of exodus. When I got them together with the men I kept a careful eye on the lot. When the rest caught up we converted the lightest 2 man loads into 1 and got all lifted, then we tied the men together in groups of 2s and together with strings or native vines. I started off with 18 of the men with cook mate Momo and Draro to help me. I put cook mate in front to keep the men from getting too far ahead. Then Momo behind 6 – and I behind 6 and Draro bringing up the read behind 6 more. In that way we worked along very smoothly keeping all men in sight at practically all times. One old man – and an old woman – his wife- were untied and just behind me. Whenever I came to a  creek or a big log I helped the men across with their loads but they generally came to expect it. Mr. and Mrs. On the other hand always nodded a thanks and seemed particularly pleased.

            At 1000 after passing over dry ridges with root infested trails, or thru palm swamps with wading thru water or mud. I called a halt and let the men rest up on the side of a dry ridge in a clearing caused by the falling of a huge forest tree with all its vines and impediments. But just as I was about to move on the rumor came that all the other people had run away – and sure enough Willie soon came with 8 women with a report of some 20 deserted loads way back. I got together the 18 men and started back soon to meet Dr. Shattuck and later Hal on their way up for assistance. The 3 of us then put back with the men each of us with a gun over our shoulder with which we threatened to salute all those who took to the bush. It was quite a merry caravan – 18 men in chains (I mean ropes) – with 3 white men armed to the teeth – ready to shoot to kill – a pretty picture. Later it occurred to me that years ago many such scenes took place – but so much more serious – and sordid. Harsh faced and possibly bearded and unkempt white men – men whose lives were spent in toiling away among the dregs of the earth – hard drinking and cruel but strong men – the slave traders. I could almost imagine the whole picture. A few of these whites with whips and crude guns, possibly joking, probably cursing, as they drove their way thru the forests. A retinue of reliably dishonest blacks. And under their charge a band of fettered prisoners with sullen mystery and terror on their faces. But perhaps I am too imaginative.

            To continue – we made very good time on our return with no evidence of trouble whatsoever, and soon came to where the last loads had been delicately tossed down and the former carrier had rather pleasantly vanished into the forest shades. However we decided to push back until we got to the earliest scene of disorder and start at the beginning. After a while we met Colbar with some half dozen carriers and loads. He and Washman – our emissaries to Ko town – had picked up 18 men and had picked up some of the earliest loads. We pushed on and after a while came to where our troubles had begun. 14 boxes were left but the Washman and some of his henchmen were waiting beside it. We also found Flumus, Shaeffer, Vani, Burma, and others of our boys so all was well. After giving all hands some cooked rice brought along in a kinja we picked up the loads and started off- Once more on our way to Sino. And so we came to the scattered loads we added them to our caravan until we had them all with us. 

            When we returned to the main group we had a light lunch of a crackers and cheese and discussed the future. We decided that our best plan would be to make push on as far as possible and then relay the remaining loads up to our camping ground. At all costs we must get as far as possible without losing any of our supplies.

            So off we went again leaving about 10 loads behind to be collected later. It was about 200 and a very clear day with brilliant sunlight and its corollary – intense shade. Underneath the shelter of the tall slender tees it was pleasantly cool and very gentle on the eyes. At about 300 without any trouble ?? our elaborate guard we came to a promising camp sight and stopped. We were also told that it was the last waters for several hours – except for swamp water. We stopped the safari (or, more accurately, did not force them on ) and prepared for the night – a night in the bush beneath a tent of leaves but with no other protection from the elements other than our mosquito nets and rain coats. But first we sent off 10 men to bring up the remaining loads.

            During the last two days I have been travelling with a very charming couple indeed – an old man with a gray beard and his somewhat younger wife. These two have always been cheerful and have given us no trouble at any time. In consequence I have taken a certain pleasure in helping them across streams and logs and they have always smiled a thanks and appreciation which has well rewarded me. When we started to make camp the man gave his wife the little bag of food they have – and told her to sit off to one side. He on the other hand made a point of doing anything that could be of service to me. If I started to clear a place for my bed he could take the cutlass and do it himself. If I wanted a root removed he sprang to my assistance – there is some justice in this world after all- (and in the morning they had both run away).             

            After getting more or less settled Hal and I went for a swim in a small stream nearby It was a rather quiet stream flowing slowly over a sandy bottom as it wound thru among the tall forest trees. And we certainly enjoyed lying in its cool water after such a hectic day. When we returned to camp in fresh clothes we distributed rice and a tobacco clash to our carriers all of whom seemed not only satisfied but pleased and promised to stay with us thru thick and thin. Then we had a hearty supper and smoke to cap the day. As we sat around the table in the night shadows we noticed that the entire floor was a glowing mass as though we were sitting upon a mysterious carpet of living fire. Every stick and leaf was thus illuminated and stood out as if outlined by magic. Overhead fitful stars peered thru the little holes in our forest ceiling and a cool breezed fauced the tree tops. But below we were shut in by impenetrable blackness. Only the flickering fires of the blacks broke the absolute immensity of the surrounding nothingness. 

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