The Harvard African Expedition Book 1: August 12, 1926

Creator

Loring Whitman

Date

8/12/26

Transcription

   Thurs Aug 12th

                  Up this morning at 500 to get ready for our start. As soon as chop was over I started to pack up my movie films. After a day of rain they were still wet and I only hope that they will not be completely ruined by this treatment. I had a devil of a job getting them on the reels in their condition and even at best they do not really set on right. The porters who we were told would arrive at 730 & expected at 800 showed up at 600 so there was much rush and bustle to get every thing ready as soon as possible. After getting the movies rolled up & the rack dismantled we could start taking the tent down. In the meantime I threw the rest of my stuff in my tin trunks and the boys packed up my bedding. At the last minute I was given some some bandages – gauze shells etc which I had to pack into camera cases, plate carriers & other sundry places as my trunks were all locked. Every body was rushing & working.

                  By the way Linder got in at one O clock last night with most of the stuff & the rest on the way. I take my hat off to him. He left tuesday & got into Monrovia tues night. Then by 1000 the next morning he had got the stuff & was on the road to Du port in the truck. Of course the truck broke down so that he didnt leave Duport till 4PM but that was not his fault.

                  But to continue. As soon as a load was ready it was given to one of the 140 blacks who were waiting to carry for us and he was sent to stand beside it with his fellow workers. Each head man had about 30 carriers under him – and these were isolated into groups so that we could check up on the loads. Then the tents came down – first Bequaerts, then mine & lastly the chiefs. About 20 men fought with each one getting in one anothers way and generally prolonging the agony. When both B & my ‘complete outfits were ready we sent them off and I soon followed with Momo, Vani and the gun boy colbar. Good bye to NO 3.- we are off. – about 715

                  When I got to the river I found the usual palaver. Half the supplies had been transferred across in 3 large dugout canoes but every 15 minutes work there was 30 of talk. I hurried them up a bit and when all loads and porters were on the other side crossed. Just as I was landing the second batch of porters arrived. Of course 2 of my men had for one reason or another not come with their boxes but as soon as another canoe crossed they came arrived and we were ready to go on again.

                  It was a beautiful day with large white clouds and a nice hot sun from which we were well protected by the heavy growth above us. As the boys walked along they sang & talked continually – you see we had just started and the loads perched on their heads still seemed light. I followed with the Headman of the group and my own boys. After the last few days of rain the trail was quite damp and in spots we had to wade thru mud almost up to the knees but that was rare and only where some half swamp – half brook had to be crossed. At about 830 we came to the first town – only some 6 or 8 scattered huts called Memi town but as we were still fresh we pushed right on thru. The porters were still singing but I began to notice certain loads beginning to drop back & lag. One box – a big wooden one, a brown duffle bag, and a table on which was piled more supplies came back to the end while the other boys disappeared up the trail. At about 900 we came to a clearing with 2 huts where the boys stopped to get a short rest. When we started again I sent the heavy loads – the box, the bag & the table on ahead but it was not long before they drifted back to the end of the caravan. One of the boys conceived the bright idea of getting a boy from the hut to carry his load for him and so we soon had the boys boss arguing with us. I told him I knew nothing about it so he went ahead and after about ½ an hour I passed him and the boy, ready to go back.

                  Up till our stop we had been travelling in large part thru a more or less second growth country along a grass edged trail but now we passed into a more heavily forested region. And as the sun was getting hotter, the added protection was welcome. We crossed a few small brooks by wading and a couple of larger ones on single logs – a nerve wracking game to which we will be used before we leave this country. The big box was now back at the end of the group and I began to wonder whether we would ever get it to Lango Town – our destination. At 1030 we got to Queeu where we again stopped to get the scattered safari together. When all was in but the big box I sent a husky looking youth off to bring it in. in the meantime the second bunch of porters arrived and with them Bequaert & the chief. When my box arrived I shifted the loads and we were ready to start – this time all together. But we did not go more than 100 yds before there was a dropping of loads & much voluble talk centered around some commotion we could not see. It proved to be a fist fight which about 30 men were trying to stop. After a while we got going again only to have it repeated 100 yds further on. This time Bequaert & the chief sailed into the two combattants themselves and we got off for good.

                  The growth was fairly tall and the trail quite open but it was filled with roots which made rather stumbly going unless you watched your feet carefully. I worked ahead thru of the porters and got to Nickabo half-town where I waited for Bequaert with whom I pushed on. On the way B. found some small white flowers closely related to the Orchids which are considered to be quite rare. We walked for about 1 ½ hours to Nickabo over the thru well rooted, deeply forested and somewhat hilly (very small hills) country to Nic where we got two chairs and sat in style on the porch of one of the huts waiting for the porters to come thru. We got there at 1245. Soon the first loads came in stopped to rest for a few minutes & pushed on to Lango town, our destination. On the Nickabo is a very clean town with about 20 native thatch top huts closely packed. These huts have smooth white clay walls on one of which was a paint drawing of a whale boat rather well done. The moment we got there is started to pour and we were very glad to be seated under a roof rather than out getting soaked. However it didnt last long & the sun soon shone again in all its glory. When Dr. Strong came thru he did not stop but pushed right on to Lango town. As we were seated on the porch Dr. Bequaert spotted some insect in the middle of the square which he evidently wanted, for he slunk out, net poised, body almost touching the ground – absolutely oblivious to his surroundings. The boys thought it very amusing – Bequaert caught a tiger Beetle – his first this trip. And it really is amusing for he springs forward, pirouettes on one toe as he waves his net to get the insect down in the bag. The reason for all this stealth when getting tiger beetles is that they take flight with the same rapidity as house flies and are exceedingly elusive.

                  At about 210 B & I pushed on. Soon we could hear water pouring over rocks and after a short journey we came to a big river mildly cascading over big rocks. It is presumably the Farmington R. The foliage along the bank was very dense so that it was almost impossible to get a good view of the water, but the noise was music and I took off my helmet to hear it better. In places we could look out and see large ledges of rock peering out above the water on which Hippo’s or crocodiles should have been basking in the sun – but were not. But we soon left the water & pushed back over a small ridge to Lango town (255). I must admit that I was glad to get there after a walk of some 20 odd miles altho I was not particularly tired.

                  Just before we arrived there we came across a long rattan fence about 2 ft high which skirted the trail and ran for quite a ways along the edge of a rice field. This is designed to catch wild pigs who follow it till they come to an opening in which is set a snare.

<Drawing of Lango town>

                  Lango town is very neat with a fence around it to keep out the wild beasts which seem very scarce. Its population is mostly female – only 2 or three men besides the chief. As soon as we got there we had our bedding undone & set up in our quarters –. a big sort of thatch covered mud bath tub which comfortably holds our 3 beds & a table for use in doors when it rains. <Drawing of sleeping quarters> Then we had some tea out side and started to pay off the porters as soon as we could get one gang & headman complete – 1/6 for each man and 3/ for the headman. However as the men were still straggling in it was a very slow job and I decided to take a swim – yes a real swim – in the stream which ran by the town. It certainly was refreshing to be able to get completely under water without the gymnastics requires by tin or canvas bath tubs. I could even swim under water. When I came out I found a male audience watching me – very lucky for had there been any damsels there I might have blushed. As it was a couple came while I was dressing and filled their pails with water. They have an odd handshake here – a lukewarm clasp followed by snapping the middle fingers together twice and they shake hands frequently. By 530 all but 3 of the porters had come in so we had chop soon after by candle light. While we were eating two more arrived leaving but one box out. After supper I played a bit on my uke but we turned in at 700 after a good days work. Of course most of the 140 carriers stayed in town so that there was much chattering and laughing till late altho I went to sleep more or less quickly. There are 8 or more goats – five dogs and some dozen odd hens which blat, bark, and cackle around to add to the confusion.

<Map of expedition route from Base Camp to Lango Town>

1st Days Route from Base Camp at Du River – Firestone NO.3 Distance – 18 miles Direction – NE-E

Type

Diary

Identifier

D1_Section35

Citation

Loring Whitman, “The Harvard African Expedition Book 1: August 12, 1926,” A Liberian Journey: History, Memory, and the Making of a Nation, accessed October 8, 2024, https://liberianhistory.org/items/show/3340.