A Liberian Journey

Creator

Loring Whitman

Date

June 26 - July 6, 1926

Coverage

Tenerife, Canarias Province, Canary Islands, Spain

Transcription

                  Sat June 26^th – Mon Tues July 56^th

                  I have been forced to condense this diary – with day after day the same – nothing new – it is impossible to do more than give a general summary.

                  For five days we slowly coasted along over comparatively quiet sea’s – at times a brilliant blue under a sparkling sun – at times a silver-gray when a haze curtailed the brilliance of the sky. But it has always been clear. Our life has been one of ease – reading, sleeping writing and occasionally talking. Dr Allen has led the scribes for he is in the process of translating a book on the birds of the little known islands off Siberia from French into English – he writes all day long. Dr. Strong and I also spend a considerable amount of time at the desks; he finishing up expedition correspondence while I write intricate diary letters to the family.

                  The other five are the readers – and I should select Dr. Bequaert as the foremost. Still it is a very close competition and I would not like to be asked to judge it. Where he shows his superiority is in the variety of the literature he has selected for this voyage. Books on insects from his study – Rebelais his eye-opener and Poe, The Koran, Madame Chrysantheme, and sundry others his daily amusement. The rest are much more less inspired – they do not interest themselves in the higher flights of fancy but needs must delve into the African game and its spoor or the wanderings of an elephant hunter. Dr. Shattuck has even restricted himself to one book – Through Darkest Africa by Stanley. I have read Hangmans House and A Diary of a Young Lady of Fashion.

                  But in the sleeping competition there are but two who show any real promise – Theiler and Linder. At first Tiny lead – easily – with an afternoon nap from half past one till four every day. But Dave appreciating the large gap which was being opened up, got quickly into action – He doubled up the time sleeping both morning and afternoon for two days until he had established himself comfortably ahead of the other competitors. The rest of us are not in the running.

                  And as regards exercise – Dr. Strong is the champion at that – the undisputed champion. For two hours every day he walks the decks with streaming brow. I sometimes walk for an hour or an hour and a half with him and Coolidge may join the company for half an hour – But we are irregular while the chief is as clockwork.-

                  But to continue with my story. As the morning of the sixth day dawned, we could see far to the south – a hundred miles away – the sharp peak of Teneriffe barely peeping over the horizon – and billowing clouds rose over it from out the sea, as if it was some still active volcano belching forth smoke. And all during the morning we could see the island slowly creep up bit by bit until finally we could make out the jagged cliffs towering a thousand feet above the sea breakers. Sheer brown gutted cliffs with never a trace of vegetation which fall into a maelstrom of white foam below. We slipped along the shore – an inhospitable shore – with little white villages nestling in some small amphitheater, on the waters edge while immediately behind rose the arid hills with tier on tier of irrigation terraces flanking the steep slopes look like giants staircases. We came into the harbor of Santa Cruz – a mere indentation in the coast line with a breakwater thrown across one side along which freighters were lying as the busily loaded or unloaded their wares. And on the other side of us was the worn – little low white buildings jumbled together and slumbering in the reflected heat of an arid sun.

                  A reception committee stood on the breakwater to watch us dock. A motley crew – mostly swarthy Spaniards in ragged dirty overalls although a few more northern Europeans in white suits were scattered through the crowd. No one moved – they just stood quietly chatting in the most shrilly diabolical language I have heard in years.- A donkey was tied to some bales of hay – but even the attraction of food was not sufficient to inspire him even to the activity of moving his long ears. And it was the same with the onlookers – a shift from one foot to the other – that was the most.

                  But immediately after the lowering of the gang plank – we were attacked – Swarms of swarthy cutthroats poured ceaselessly aboard to veritably fill the ship with Spanish and a faint odor of unwashed garlic – we locked our cabins and disembarked.

                  After clambering from one auto-mobile to another we at last got settled in preparation for a sight seeing trip. Dr. Strong, Dr. Shattuck, Theiler, Hal & I were in one car – while Allen, Bequaert and Linder formed the second unit which was to go to other parts of the island. We parted, or rather they left while we still sat – surrounded by much Spanish and no ambition. However with a great effort we at last persuaded the driver that we would like to see some of the island before sunset and that we didn’t need four or five guides to show us around – And so we were off.

                  First we rattled through narrow streets flanked by (unclear) inhospitable walls and paved with cobble stones. There seems to be an air of defense about these Spanish houses – as though they were trying to keep out prying eyes yet at the same time see all that is going on outside. White plaster walls with little balconies jutting out above – and from every window a head peering out through half opened shutters. As our car was equipped with a french horn we squawked through the town.

                  And then we climbed – up and up – zigzagging back and forth as we rose constantly above the town. We looked back, there below us were the little white roofs and narrow streets – there was the harbor with boats which looked like colored match sticks. We could look along the cliffs at whose base a delicate white thread showed where the waves were ceaselessly pounded under wearing away the island. And off in the distance in the afternoon haze lay another island with equally ragged sky line over which hung soft billowy clouds protecting it from the burning sun. And so we passed over the divide to plunge into skirt the western shores.

                  The island of Teneriffe is dry, terribly try.- Cactuses form hedges along parts of the road – cactuses with yellow flowers. And over all the steep slopes are layer upon layer of terraces and irrigation ditches – a mute testimony to the arid climate. The vegetation is all stunted and brown or dusty. Fields of wheat – yellow straw colored or dusty stunted corn lie in patches over the hillsides. There are no rich greens, just yellows and dull olive. But And on the western slopes there are veritable cañons where in where in the rainy season torrents must rush from the mountain peaks through the thirsty soil to plunge finally into the sea thousands of feet below. But they are dry beds of round lava pebbles now with cactuses growing out of their walls and occasional patches of scrub corn struggling up between water worn boulders. And all this on the steep hil slopes which drop out of sight into the smooth blue waters.

                  We visited the Botanical gardens. An oasis in a desert of banana trees. The gardens consist of an unassorted jungle of tropical trees – half of which are unnamed – where one can sit in the cool damp shade – a relief from the dry tropical sun.- And everywhere were doves cooing in the palm trees, or warblers bubbling in some shaded nook.

                  We continued to the beach at Orotava – dirty black lava pebbles, upon which countless people lay. White table cloths were spread here and there, with large flagons of wine or milk bottles forming the only visible form of sustenance and sporting in the waves were children of all ages, their well browned naked bodies glistening in the brilliant tropical sun. Here and there some spanish matron of was dousing a diminutive infant in the waves, at the same time conversing with friends, lying prostrate nearby. We watched one family – a mother, an two older daughters and four younger children, the latter naked. The mother was pouring water over the laughing youngsters while the older daughters received them with spotless white bath towels as they came sparkling up the beach.

                  But the swimming could not have been good – for nowhere was there more than a few square yards of clear water visible. Jagged merciless lumps of lava do not improve bathing.

                  We returned to the car to drive back and forth thru the little narrow streets of Orotava – little spanish streets – with once more an air of shy defense about them. And again heads peered out at us from every window and door as we noisily squawked around corners. But it was beginning to get late, and as we did not like the looks of the hotel to which our driver brought us, we decided to return to Santa Cruz for dinner.

                  We returned along the coast as the sun was getting low – casting long shadows and throwing all the little houses valleys and trees into sharp relief. And as the sun sank it gradually changed from a hard yellow to a more restful orange-red, which suffused itself over the greens and browns of the hil hillsides to make give them once more a live fresh vital look. And us Them We crossed over the divide, to find that the sun was still playing on the tips of the peaks – purple deep purple slopes with pink caps like glowing teeth jutting from them. Below the lights of the town were beginning to appear while the neighboring islands were fading out of our existence for the night – a soft cool wind nestled inside our coats until we were forced to pull them tight around us.

                  We passed two camels trudging by us, with that haughty disdainful even offensive look peculiar to camels. They really belong in this land of drought and cactuses.

                  But we were now back to the Hotel Orotava where we had a very pleasant meal and some canary wine – Excellent wine on the order of Chianti. Our waiter – probably german – had really very little use for the canaries although he had been there for 3 yrs. I almost enquired the reason for his staying but desisted. After the meal we wandered out to the square to walk for a few minutes with all the other inhabitants of the town – just back & forth. I suppose that, that is one of the most important items of the days life. Dr. Strong, Shattuck & Coolidge went for a walk around the town while Theiler & I returned to the ship to watch them unload. A black crystal clear night with stars doing their best to outshine the electric lights which glared upon the writhing machinery.  And in the half lights outside, sat dusky youths idley watching the performance. With much rattling and puffing – bale after bale of goods swung up into the blaze of electricity to swing out into the shadows. And later as we sat on the rail looking out at this noisy confusion of high lights and shadows – a big yellow moon, slightly warped, shone serenely out from the water to shed its mellow light upon us.

                  And the next morning were were again at sea, or to be more correct we were just coming into the harbor of Las Palmas. This time we did not dock but anchored out in the harbor. We were immediately boarded by Indians selling almost any kind of trinket which was really useless elephant hair rings & bracelets, cigaret and cigar holders, beads, earrings, necklaces, shawls and very poorly carved ebony elephants which were probably wood and black paint, formed the majority of their wares, altho I am sure that the variety was greater than the quality. And all this for outrageous prices.

                  Drs Strong, Shattuck, Theiler, Linder & Coolidge went ashore to drive for miles around the island. They had a very enjoyable trip. Three of us, Allen, Bequaert & myself stayed on board to watch bazaar crafts drift across the unruffled water. One swarthy ruffian in particular, rowed out to the boat with a cargo of fruit, puppy dogs and canaries which were singing as if their hearts would break. He floated there upon the blue green water with his boat a mass of oranges limes and bananas – brilliant yellow upon dazzling blue green.

                  And all day long was the constant rattle and clash of machinery as the four holds were simultaneously being emptied into huge barges lashed along both sides. There was constant work, but out on the water little boats drifted back & forth as the fickle winds chose. For no one considered lifting an oar more than necessary and after all what is the rush? The rest of the party returned hot but pleased for lunch. In the afternoon Hal & I sat on the boat deck watching a diver at work. As far as we could make out he was picking up coral which had been split from the barges as ships were unloaded. The diver himself was the only busy member – the rest – well the man at the oars did not believe in any unnecessary effort while the men pumping air down practically went to sleep at their job. A fourth member of the crew occasionally hauled up a basket or tossed down a fresh one. And at last when the diver reappeared on the surface they sat for about half an hour before finally drifting away before a gentle breeze. Such is life in Las Palmas. A young boy came along side to dive for coins – only one where we expected many. For a while the passengers watched him idley as his lean bronze form disappeared into the clear blue -  but soon he left – too many pennies and not enough silver. Then we left too – to steam away into the ocean.

                  We reverted to our former life again – reading and writing in the morning – sleeping and reading in the afternoon and tea at four. From 430-600 Dr Strong, accompanied at times by me, or Coolidge, walked the decks. In the evening we split up into small groups to sit idley looking over the quiet seas or watching the dancers revolving to pitifully slow music.

                  Only two three events broke into the regularity of our existence. First – on the 4^th of July Mr & Mrs Mills joined us for dinner in the evening. The table was elaborately decorated with a tall pinnacle of chocolate composition to which were attached many small American flags and snap crackers. It was quite a gay party. There were also three larger flags - An American flag, made with colored crayons from a white piece of table cloth - a German flag and a Woerrmann-Linie flag - all on little stands with halyards. A very agreeable table. And it was a pleasant change from the normal quiet dinners to which we have become rather accustomed. We drank to the health of the party, to those at home, to the King, etc. And every few minutes a snap cracker popped - to yield a verse - in german - and some ingenious toy. But it was disappointing to find no paper hats.

                  Secondly, we stopped at Freetown in Sierra Leone. We arrived there late on the night of the fifth; about 1100 to drop anchor off the bright lights of the town. We sat on the top deck as the boat crept up beneath a tropical sky – past the light house – up the mouth of the little river to slowly stalk the little town snuggled under what appeared to be a rather imposing hill. Little irregular yellow lights against a black slope.

                  And in the morning we went ashore on the continent of Africa for the first time. One of the first things which caught my eye was the variety of color which abounded; the brilliant green foliage; the ruddy brown earth of the streets and houses, too; and above all the oranges, blues, reds and greens which adorned the throngs of blue black natives who filled the streets. One youth in particular – almost purple black with a beautiful physique was wearing an orange and black cap and an orange loin cloth. – an extremely striking color combination. Immediately we landed we were surrounded by boys who wished to show us around or carry our cameras and of whom we could not rid ourselves. We wandered up the little hill to the main street – not very long nor very imposing – where we split – five going to the laboratory five while Coolidge & I went shopping. The stores were usually dark with no window display – little black holes in the wall .. a white man and several black assistants made up the personnel. We went to the german store on food & from there to the French store where a heavy tropical shower overtook us. Of course our raincoats were aboard so we were forced to hire the last available “taxi” & ride in state to one of the big supply stores and the chemists. Unfortunately though perservering, our success was limited and our purchases few. We then went in search of the Doctors, going from Hospital to dispensary and to hospital again, to always find that we were a jump behind. At least, however, we found them at the first place we had visited and joining them in their trip thru the wards.- It was a native hospital for blacks quite clean and cool with plenty of room between beds. But there were very few interesting cases, if any, and we didn’t stay very long. We walked back thru the town past the market place. It was on the beach – in a little valley so that we looked down on it from the top of a bridge – a large building with vultures sitting on top – and around it were countless ever-moving people in bright caps & headdresses a solid mass of strange colors. And just off the beach were tied the fishing boats slowly bobbing up & down on the gentle swell. On each side of the street were little native stores in front of which sat were lying baskets of roots & vegetables or other wares surrounded by blacks lazily squatting in the shade. And at each corner stood a policeman to guide traffic.

                  One youth who had followed us from place to place despite our protests now wanted a “dash” for his services. He even claimed that he had put our box in the auto when we had done that deed ourselves. He followed us down to the dock, arguing and even as we stepped aboard the launch he still gesticulated. The other boys on the dock thought it was great & cheered as we bobbed away.

                  In the evening Frau Consul-General Hermanns and the captain joined us for dinner & dancing. The captain – a jolly old soul – asked the assembled company if they would like the music – and bar – to stay open for an extra hour – a plan unanimously acclaimed and then gathered paper caps of odd shapes for the ‘assembled multitudes’. Later in the evening he broke out some champagne for the company

Type

Diary

Identifier

D1_Section4

Citation