A Liberian Journey

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Fri Oct 22^nd – Back in a inhabited country again. After the customary delay – which we have learned to except from our trusty followers we got packed and started. A grey, misty morning with clouds hanging low.

- As the morning wore on, however, the skys cleared and we were soon walking through the checkered light of a bright sun shining thru holes in the days dense green ceiling above. The porters started to sing their carrying songs – and the wild yelping so musical in its way echoed the woods. “Halelu su la lu qua lu way” in an ascending scale – And as the first man got to the second part another commenced at the beginning.

Halelu salal lu qua le way Halelu

            Halelu suala lu qualu way

                        Halelusula lu qua lu way 

Really it is quite agreeable. And today we no longer have need for driving, scolding and pushing – whenever they stopped we rested – and without any assistance form us they started again – cheerful and friendly. After all the fuss and effort of the last few weeks it really was a great relief – and we began to be sorry that we didn’t have a whole safari of them to take us down the Sino. But why complain. And today, too, they have not stopped so frequently as before – or stayed so long. No it has been quite pleasant and we have all felt the relief of not guarding them lest we should find an deserted load staring us in the face. 

So the day passed until – at about 200 we came to the banks of the Sanguin River – down which we followed for a few minutes – then. We had once at last reached the end of our forest journey – and were back once more to villages and farms. We had to wait for quite a while until some natives appeared on the opposite bank. These, soon catching sight of us disappeared to soon return with paddles, with then which they brought a big dugout across to our assistance.

      I went with the first load to keep our eye on the boxes and to better take photos of the river crossing. This latter idea was somewhat impaired by the arrival of a shower which dimmed the sun and greatly diminished the beauty of the tall trees flanking the river.

      Hal crossed soon and went up to the town when he started to make arrangements about houses. Then Strong came – and finally Shattuck. When all was across we went up to the village.

      The main thing which first took our attention was the quite and orderly aspect of the place. Instead of many round windowless mud huts to which we had become accustomed there were comparatively few, and these were rectangular affairs with mat walls and front porch. But the surprising part was the fact that they were placed in two long rows facing on a main street or public square if you wish to call it that. And In the center was the sacred tree – small to be sure – surrounded by stakes, and by the customary dishes and gourds in which I suppose sacrificial offerings were put on special occasions. And in the background were banana leaves – huge – pale green –slowly moving in the light breeze, - then a clearing – and the distant blue black forest rising towering behind.  It was quite a charming place were it not for its inhabitants. <Drawing of house> The houses themselves had a certain oriental look about the slope of their roofs reminding one perhaps of pictures of Japan – a fleeting resemblance to be sure – but there neverthe- less. As I have said before – it was a small place with only about a dozen huts.

      When I arrived at the place Towya I found that we had “leased” a house at the end of the village – by paying its owner 5 shillings to take out the mud wall and sweep the place. The owner by the way was probably a  big weak above – as well as being a dandy by nature – for he has about six anklets on each leg made in the form of bells or better musical rattles which clink as he goes around. He also wears necklaces and bracelets. <Drawing of bracelet> And he will disappear mysteriously to reappear with a chicken which he locks up elsewhere – whether from fear of its annoying us or our annoying it – I don’t know. 

      As soon as we started to set up our establishment we were surrounded by a crowd of curious blacks – many of whom had come from neighboring towns with produce to sell – thinking that we were traders. Again we were in a land of plenty – sweet potatos, squash and pumpkin, rice, chickens, bananas, Edo etc – all came pouring in – so that poor Hal was kept very busy getting out tobacco – our money – and examining the wares. But all finally quieted down- we drove away the onlookers – and took our refreshing baths in comparative peace. Then a dinner – a Thanksgiving dinner at having escaped the forest – a smoke in the light of a full moon rising from behind a veritable mountain of clouds to climb thru the branches of a big silk cotton tree before soaring out over the world with its mellow splendor. Not such a bad day after all x

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