A Liberian Journey

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Mon 11^th – We arose early – 500 to pack and have breakfast – and it was not long before all our supplies – boxes trunks and bags were lined up in front of our house. – But there were no porters. Some 15 or 20 men were gathered near the commissioners residence – but what are 15 men when we needed 70. A bit later 10 men showed up whom the quarter master provided for us. Then Dr. Strong went over to see Parker – the ass’t D.C. who suggested that we send some of the our boys down to the town to help round up men. The trouble is that D.C. Carter left here day before yesterday with 200 men and none of them have come back.

            Our boys were able to get a few men which they added to the group outside of the commissioners house. In the meantime Hal and I went in search of the interpreter to find the names of the intervening towns on the way to Granh – our destination. As we were standing on the porch we saw some men and women – with empty baskets – coming up from the town and were told they were Mandingos. We went out to see them and they beated around the govt compound on the outside of the fence. So when they showed up on the far side we sent the boys out after them. Then just at that time the Mandingo Chief came dashing out and ordered the men to go on, that we had no business to stop them. We told him that we had letters from the Secty of the Interior – and War, instructing all chiefs, headmen etc, etc. to comply with the wishes of the H.A.E. and to supply them with men. We wished to show him these – and in the meantime keep his men from running away. But he ignored us and tried to shove his people thru us. Some of our boys ran ahead and stopped them again at which he grew vexed and ran after them. – We pursued and a soldier actually collared the chief. He next tried to shove some of our other wise arranged porters off with his own people.

            We were a bit peeved – especially at his disrespect for the govt and his entire disrespect for us, and Dr. Strong told him he was going to take him to Monrovia if he didn’t change his tactics. When we got back into the compound he Parker came over and the Chief harangued abut not being white man’s country and that the white man should not be allowed to humbug the people etc etc. We were also annoyed with that language and asked Parker to tell him to go easy or such including language – but parker being a bit weak sort of “sh-sh’d” us. Then the Mandingo Chief told Burmeah that he was a fool to work for the white man and obey his orders. Burmah got peeved and called him a fool. And so you can see that we had a very merry palava. In the meantime Dr. George and I got the other boxes loaded up and sent them off. Dr. George going with them. There we went over to say good by to Parker only find that the Mandingo had registered a complaint and what did we have to say about it. We had plenty to say but didn’t attempt to finish complete the story. We told what happened how the men had gone around the compound – how the Chief had told them to go on and wouldn’t pay any attention to govt orders etc. Parker seemed to indicate that the Mandingo was exempt from service – and that it was all our fault. But we had to be getting under way. We said good bye to him and to Mr. Taylor.

            In the town we found 7 loads deposited and found that the chiefs men had run away – having been stopped by two men who tried to get all porters to run away. It was rather awkward and a rather dirty final blow from the Mandingo. But after a short delay we gathered some pwales together and were off. Talking of women carriers we have about 15 min our caravan today due to a shortage of men – and they make excellent carriers too. 3 youths in Red Jeyes were also carrying but they tried to quit at the first town. After much palaver we got then under their loads with 2 messengers to prod them on their way. The first town has for a naïve Barnigree- potato vine. As Dr. George was ahead with most of the men I set out to join him leaving Hal to look after the half dozen stragglers – so I set off at a fast pace to catch him. It was quite hot – even at 9 – and before long I was ringing wet, for there was no shade and the road was broad and white. I passed thru Zaigbue, Vanh, and at Gineh I found Dr. Shattuck trying to get a man for a deserted load. He told me that they reported no more towns for many hours and asked me to keep the main bunch of porters moving – so I pushed on and finally caught up with the crowd. We had passed now from second growth to big bush and again it was cool going. Tall trees and slender vines with little sun breaking thru the roof of leaves far above. The men were moving along quite steadily and it was merely a matter of walking along thru the matted dead leaves up and down over miniature hills and valleys. And thanks to Widaho 200 men and the D.C.’s 200 the trail was well cut up and whenever there was water it was a slimy muddy ditch – and there was plenty of water. I don’t think I have seen so much mud since leaving Monrovia. But as I said before, it was cool and very pleasant to walk continually in the shadow of the forest. About 100 some of the men stopped to bathe in a stream and as they had been carrying well I stopped to give them a change. Dr. George caught up with me there and for the next half hour we walked together – eating a roll a piece which he had in one of his bags. Then for the safety of our safari I set out to pass up thru the carriers and see that they did not run away at the next town. Once more I was off at a fast pace and it was not long before I started to go thru small groups sitting down to rest here and there. I did not disturb them but continued right on thru wading streams with a vengeance – There were plenty of streams, too and I had the pleasure of watching one build up from small sandy brooks to a large river. But finally I had passed all – except one woman carrying quite a heavy load who strode along at a very fast pace without any slowing for obstacles. I was quite content to stay behind her – and she paced me all the way to the next town Uwee where I sat down to wait for the rest. Sando was there and got some water boiling for tea. About 20 minutes later Dr. George arrived and we had our tea – and a biscuit a piece – the second since 530. Then we waited. There was an elephant hunter who had just come up from Granh and reported it to be about 2 ½ hours away. Otherwise he knew little of the country. Uwee was deserted except for him and his two men for what hadn’t run into the bush at the D.C.’s approach had been incorporated in that gentlemans party. At about 400 the Mandingo and his people came thru – to place a complaint with the D.C. – sweet fellow. And 5 minutes later Dr. Strong and Hall. So on we went with much grumbling and with the sun slowly setting. At about 500 I was sent ahead to tell Shattuck to stop at the next town as it was getting too dark to travel but he was so far ahead that I didn’t catch him for some 15 minutes – and that was 15 minutes beyond the nearest town – about 10 huts. So we continued and at 530 I passed ahead to make sure that all porters stopped at the next one. And from there one – I walked very fast in the dusk – thru filthy mud and over rotten bridges to Zai town where I called a halt. It was a small deserted village – about 12 huts most of them palm leaf stems for log walls and only about 5 mud huts. It looked rather dilapidated but it was dark so why worry. Dr. George soon came in and immediately set out with a flashlight to cheer the carriers in. I had one hut cleaned and as the boxes cam in assorted and stacked them so that there could be some order and protection. Dr. Strong came in next and finally Hal at about 700 – pitch dark – for the sun sets at 530 with all the porters. He only had a miniature flashlight to light his way in. Then came a spasm of unpacking – bedmaking – table setting and brief washing and at about 815 Chop – well earned Chop – except for 2 rolls the first chop since 530 A.M. But before we ate Dr. George and I distributed a cup of rice to each of our carriers – male and female. The washman discovered a devil costume – grass skirt etc with not which he spent the entire evening rushing around and playing devil – it was quite amusing.

            But we didn’t finish chop til quarter of nine – so we went to bed immediately afterwards. 

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