The Harvard African Expedition, Book 2: September 30, 1926

Creator

Loring Whitman

Date

09/30/26

Transcription

Thur Sept 30th

This morning Hal Mr. Taylor – Mr. Yausen and I left at about 600 for Sessu town for a hunt. It was a misty morning but the sky was blue over head promising a good day. We went out by the school compound and soon passed under tall cool trees. About a mile out we came to a town almost as big as Tappi shining in the bright early morning sun. Then we passed on back into the cool forest along a clear sandy trail – half road. And after as we half an hour we came across our first Liberian elephant tracks – old to be sure, but still recognizeable – where a herd had crossed the road. The tracks looked as if someone had taken a big log and punched it on end into the ground. And at about 810 we arrived at Sessu. It was practically deserted and the houses all looked worn. Some of them even were beginning to cave in. But it was pleasant and there were trees all around it instead of low bushes. Hal and I pitched our tents in a very small kitchen which had a single room attached. <Drawing of house> The roofs all come very low to the ground so that to get in one has to bend way down. This design – according to the natives makes it harder for the enemy to get in as he has to bend over and is an easy target. Our friend Lt. Weedah came thru that day. Altho he had told us a Gbanga that he always walked he came in a hammock and looked a bit annoyed and a bit chagrined at our catching him that way. He is a tremendous boaster – especially how far he can walk in a day. – Of course we left Gbanga 21 day behind him and arr. At Tapi 3 days before. As we had to wait for further elephant reports from the natives we were forced to sit around camp – so I shot a white nose monkey for Hal to skin and a couple of new birds for myself. And that kept us busy till supper. Just about dark the towns people came in filling up the place. Most of them sat in a circle around our dwelling for we are the first white men to sleep there and the curiosity is great. These people have been living in the bush because they have been too much exploited by the military. Now the govt. Is trying to get them out in a town so they are building up the line. So all men are there during the day while the women are on the farms.

It was quite picturesque to see brass rings, bracelets and anklets reflecting the light from our candle. For an eye or teeth flashing out of shadowy bodies almost merging with the darkness, unless some fire in a native hut flared up casting a band of light over the squatting black forms. But when we blew out the light there was a stampede. And as with the flashlight not a soul could be seen. 

Type

Diary

Identifier

D2_Section18

Citation

Loring Whitman, “The Harvard African Expedition, Book 2: September 30, 1926,” A Liberian Journey: History, Memory, and the Making of a Nation, accessed April 26, 2024, https://liberianhistory.org/items/show/3389.