The Harvard African Expedition Book 1: September 11, 1926

Creator

Loring Whitman

Date

9/11/26

Transcription

                  Sun. Sept 11th – Well – once more we are on the road. At 530 we arose and the three of us – Dr. Strong; Dr George & I started to pack up before breakfast in preparation for an early start. After breakfast we continued until everything was ready & then waited for porters – a custom well established in our liberian travels. We had of course some of our own men but wanted others from the D.C. However by 745 we were off on our way with a total of 18 carriers. For a while the trail skirted rice fields and plunged thru little spasms of thick vine clad trees. Then we crossed a river and settled down again into second growth. First we came to Quayah a half deserted town about an hr. from camp where I waited for the slow boys & herded them up with the others. This town has its houses decorated with orange & black designs in dots. It is mostly, however, just scrawled zigzags <Drawing of dot designs> etc Then we passed on our way to <unclear> Boninuh – completely deserted. And then Weenjou – pronounced as if you were saying “we and you” very fast. This village is in the process of reestablishment. At one time deserted they are trying feebly to repopulate and it. At Weenjou I took a photo of a devil bush. A devil bush is where the youths are taught and trained and is the initiation school of Manhood. The devil bushes are usually grass mat fences around very tall trees which tower up into the sky.

                  From Weenjou on it was very hot and not well protected from the sun so that the sweat just poured off us in torrents. And our feet began to drag too. Two hours later we arrived at Bunai where I became the center of a palavar. It seems that the headmans boy (slave) had been sent to Gbanga to buy stuff and had come to us for a job. So I had him carry my bed. When we got to Bunai his master – a short, sloppy man with white scars on his eyes – probably of ulterior origin – asked me if this chap was getting 10 3 a day – which I denied.- How much was he getting?- It was none of his business. The upshot was that he sent one of his men along to bring his slave back as soon as the white man looked the other way. After 15 minutes Dr. Strong arrived and I pushed on to Pélé – over a very up and down trail mostly wooded – It was a great relief to get in the shade but the grades tho short were very steep and followed one another at rapid intervals.

                  At Pélé I again waited for Dr. Strong & Dr. Shattuck who had had some trouble with the porters. At least, one man having imbibed too much palm wine was in poor shape to carry and gave out at Bunai. The same headman had raised much noise and wasted much time before supplying the needed man. So it was an hour before I moved again. During the interim I took some photo’s of a skin disease and ate a brick hard plantain at 200 the only chop since a 600 breakfast. At 300 I moved on this time behind the porters pushing them from behind. The boys were all beginning to get tired as were we and it was quite hard to keep them from lingering on the way. The trail which had been going pretty well north now turned east and was comparatively level to War tah which we reached at 400 – good and tired. Our original destination had been Naama but it was so late & we all so tired we decided to stop at Wo where were even though our open air dwelling had been used as a house by all the goats in town. Still we swept it out and set up the beds, got out food and had a wash & dry clothes all around.

                  Leave Gbanga 745 – Arr. Wartah 400

                  Distance – about 20 miles


15 NE

5 W

5 NE

------>

5 Lost in wading

5 NE

5 ENE

15 N

5 NNE

20 N

[quayah]

 

5 NE Lost at Quayah

5 Rest at QUAYAH

15 NE

5 NNE

5 ENE

5 EN

5 NE

10 NNE

5 N

5 NEE

Bonmuh – deserted

10 N

15 NNE

15 N

[WEENJOU]

20 N

10 NEN

20 N

20 NEN

12 E

18 NE

[BUNAI]

7 NE

8 ENE

7 NW

20 N

13 NE

12 ENE

63 Pélé

20 ES

15 E

15 EN

15 E


                  Supper tasted good that night after our long period of starvation, but we had gone so long without food that we large quantities of food & water soon gave us a stomach age and we had to desist. And soon after going to bed supper we went to bed very early. The only trouble with the hut is that we are in the goat house & they resent it by jumping on the wall & blatting. Oh yes our porter fellow was paid off and shipped back because so much palavar was raised over him. He was a very good carrier too.

Type

Diary

Identifier

D1_Section65

Citation

Loring Whitman, “The Harvard African Expedition Book 1: September 11, 1926,” A Liberian Journey: History, Memory, and the Making of a Nation, accessed April 25, 2024, https://liberianhistory.org/items/show/3370.