A Liberian Journey

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                  The whole way was second growth – no “big bush” as the tall forests are called. I arrived with the first bunch of porters.

ESTIMATED DISTANCES                 PLOTTED DISTANCES

Du to Lango – 15 miles                                      15

L. to Kakatown – 13 “                                          11

K “ Memmeh’s – 20 “                                          18

M “ Reppue’s – 9 “                                                8

R “ Miamu – 8 “                                                       7

M “ Zeanshu – 15 “                                               13

Z “ Suakoko – 14 “                                                  12

SK “ GBanga – 9 “                                                   6

                  Our residence at Gbanga is a big “kitchen” or open sided house of really tremendous size with a raised portion at one end on which we have <Drawing of “kitchen”> decided to skin our animals, to prepare our plants and to store all our extra goods & chattels.

                  This house occupies the throne of the govt compound. <Drawing of compound> Directly behind is the kitchen – a regular house while to the west is a small circular building which I am going to use for a dark room.

                  Around this compound is a fence made of vertical poles – 3” trees stuck very close together with green shoots growing out of them – bound at the top with a bundle of horizontal branches.

                  In front we gaze out at what amounts to a cross section of big bush – huge trees – some of them possibly 200 ft tall – and all of them 125-150 ft. in which we occasionally see monkeys sporting – and from the massive branches, drop vines and Lianas until completely blotting out the view behind and forming a solid green & black impassable wall above which broad spreading limbs sweep out. And in the center is the gray skeleton of a massiv giant, still standing out alone from its younger brethren.

                  After I got in I paid off my own porters and read the note I have given them at Suakoko. Then I reported the events of the past – since Memmeh’s town and gave to my best knowledge the positions of all those behind me and their probable equipment & needs. After lunch I looked over the camp and my darkroom – but I decided to postpone activities until tomorrow. At about 330 Dr. Strong Harold & I went down to see the market – the big event of the week, which always comes at 400 Sat. after noon and to which – so we are told – all must attend come or be fined. It is held near us under some big trees – where it is cool & clean & large enough for the gathering of some 200 people.

                  As we wandered around we could see people coming in – families with the women & children carrying huge calabashes filled with oranges corn, limes, sweet potatoes etc. Or men carrying palm leaf packs of similar goods. And on the backs of most women were bright eyed children their hair plastered down, and gazing over the crowd with stolid interest. Then at 400 with most every body present, the chief of the market harangued them as they squatted on the ground. First however the bartering was done altho nothing could be sold until the word was given. The harangue was to the effect that as this was the harvest season for this, that and the other, the prices must be kept low on those commodities. Then a whistle and the fight is on. The wares are spread on the ground – except for the bright pink, yellow, red, white etc imported clothes falle hung on the fence. And around each bunch of produce is a milling crowd of people looking on or squirming in to buy. The medium is tobacco.

                  The mandingos come down from the french border (so we are told) to attend this affair.

                  Then back to camp to distribute wash carried from Miamu and have supper.

Sat Sept 4.th – 3 of 5 eggs which we floated in water or rather sank turned out to be fried chicken. Sent of messenger at 445 in dark – had to get up as couldn’t persuade him to come & get note. Porters came around as we ate. Drove them away & had to put on sweater – temp fall as fast. Packed off 60 men in short order. Changed clothes & left with 8 more at 745. Forgot umbrella and sent Vani back for it. Came to stream carried but fellow slipped luckily landed in shallows & only wet up to knee. Rest of day excellent going. For America about 1 ½ hrs out – fairly big clean town but as, usual deserted in day time. Trail ran NE at first then swung SE out of America. Damned second growth. Slight showers but mainly good day. Next town Melinda (Belinda?) half fallen down. Only 20 mins more SSE to Gbanga. Caught up with other porters – got in 1045 Just 3 hrs. Said Howdye to Strong Allen & Coolidge. Paid off my own men & read my own message. Talked over events of the past. In afternoon got somewhat straightened out and trunk opened. Distributed Strongs & Coolidges wash carried from Miamu. Opened up movie films. At about 400 took pictures of the market. People slowly trickle in by families with babies on back – gourd or basket filled with good on head. Tobacco the medium of barter. No sales till after ceremonies commended Mandingo’s came down from Fr. Border for this Sat. affair. Bright colored cloth from civilized places – no native cloth. Some oranges, pumpkins, corn, and other articles of food. All look over stuff and probably arrange for sale. – Beating of log – man with beard walks around harangueing the assembly which has seated itself on ground beneath trees. Then at word mad scramble of people beneath one another. Back to the shack for supper. Are sleeping in big “kitchen about 20 30 /40 ft square with open sides in the middle of a fenced in barren enclosure boasting of 5 other buildings one small. It is govt headquarters for D.C. Clarke. 

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