A Liberian Journey

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Monday July 12^th

We got up at 5.30 and struggled into our bush clothes. I had on Coolidges shirt and puttees etc. Then breakfast ; rather quiet but much enjoyed by all hands. At about 700 Johnson showed up and we were soon ready to start. Dr. Strong, Shattuck & Bonet & Johnson went in Ross’ car while Schofield, Allen, & I brought up the rear in a Ford – We drove out the road by the garrison – surprisingly good for the country – We passed thru a regular palm forest – on both sides of the road for several miles. After that we got into more open savannah country in which more birds were to be seen – Weaver birds had established large colonies in the scattered palm trees on both sides of the road – little finch like birds flew out of the grass – A pair of fish eagles soared over us while shrikes etc perched on the ends of some stub watching for some  large prey – a grasshopper or a moth. But soon we arrived at Du port – 1 house and a store room with a lock on it – and a launch sitting on a stream scarcely larger than a brook over which tall trees & vines arches shutting out most of the sunlight altho little patches got thru here & there. And along side this stream grew soft green water plants with big leaves.

After the usual delay we at last got out stuff loaded onto the launch and pushed off, twisting back & forth with the narrow stream, always shut in by the jungle-. Now & then we passed a long dugout canoe with an entire family, plus lumber or some form of load sat drawn up in the weeds to let us pass. And every time we met one the launches Klaxon horn shattered the jungle stillness and I nearly jumped out of my chair. But we soon got out into the Bow river – a very flat winding river with many-fronded palm trees Raphia Vinifera lining the shores mixed with mangroves. But it was low and more of the florida type, than the tropical growth of which I had heard. We shivered down stream – the launch has a two cylindered engine.- For about an hour until we finally were joined by the Du (Dukwia) River up which we turned. The current was now more swift and of course against us so that our two cylindered engine shivered us along at a very slow rate. Drs, Strong, Shattuck & Boney – not forgetting Schofield & Johnson slept a good part of the way while Dr. Allen & I kept an eye open for game. Slowly but surely we crept out of the brackish water with its mangroves into more & more tropical growth – the trees bordering the river were taller and while vines & creepers draped down into the water. Brilliant steel blue swallows (Hirundello nigritas) flew over the water or perched on stubs which peered above the water. And they were always in pairs – never more together. And as we progressed we saw more frequently giant silk cotton trees, rising 150 ft – straight silver stems with huge branches jutting out near the top. And all the time the river grew twistier and narrower. Every now & then we would pass the same over grown double ended life boats so common on the shore with twelve glistening blacks pulling for all their worth up stream – cargo boats carrying rice – the only native food. As we progressed further – little bright blue hummin Kingfishers with orange red bellies flew chattering by us – orange & blue arrows. And slate gray gnatcatchers (or so they look) hopped from one tangled vine to another – never more than a foot above the water.

But in the meantime we were just beginning to get hungry. After all we dined at 600AM and it was now 1-2-230. Nothing to do but pull the belt in another notch. At 300 we got to NO 1- a big 4000 acre clearing – absolutely desolate with a small – or rather several small – native villages surrounding the white man’s house – perched on a barren knoll. It is rather remarkable to realize that this whole clearing was virgin forest in November – and now they have started to set out rubber plants.

We went up to the cottage where we met the inmate – Peel – a very young chap in charge of the work. While chop was being prepared we talked to him and had our duffle brought up for we are to spend the night there. It was rice day – and scores of extremely rugged & healthy looking blacks were waiting in line for their supply – 1 cup a day. Peel puts in two complete days a week dishing out rations. And in the meantime somebody brought in a young squirrel for Dr. Allen – our first specimen of the trip.

As soon as we had eaten we were off again for No 2. where Dr. Willis is spending the night. On the way I shot a monkey from the launch but he fell in the river & immediately sank to the bottom. Dr. Bonet also took a shot at a big hornbill – tremendous black awkward looking birds which we constantly see flapping along with an undulating motion to soar for a moment. We arrived at No2 at sunset to be greeted by mosquitos and two American boys in charge of it. One – Putnam is a graduate of Harvard ’24 the other – Crum – did not go to college. No 2 tho not so large as No 1. Is just about the same and just as impressive tho not as well cleared.

But we must fly back down the river in the dark for supper & bed. Ive come to the conclusion that the natives can see round corners in the dark. 

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