A Liberian Journey

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                  Fri Sept 3^rd. a day of rest practically free from rain though cloudy. Dave and I decided to call it a day of rest for we were still weary from the last two days marches. Also I had got two blisters over my Achilles tendon thanks to bright sun shrinking my sneakers after a 2 hr continuation of rain & wading. And to clinch the matter only 20 men showed up which we packed off with boxes for G’banga. We got a note from Dr. Strong saying that we would stay at Gbanga, that all was well,

                  For most of the morning we stayed in doors – Dave writing his diary while I plotted out all my compass reading for the last few days travel. When I got thru I glued them together into a map over 4 ft long which read from lango town to Sua Koko. Later I took a few pictures around the town. As I expected, upon taking out my camera half of the femininity disappeared leaving me but little to photograph. Later I went into Sua Kokos stockade – made out of tall – 12 ft – thin poles stuck into the ground very close together. The entrance consisted of a narrow passage similarly made with a heavy door at each end. It – the passage – projected out from the wall like a snout while the doors were like this <Drawing of door> of very heavy and thick wood. When I went there there was just barely room for my shoulders and I had to stoop over – all of which goes to show that this part of the country has only recently been included by the govt.

                  Sua herself is quite old – probably 70 – (I am corrected to 60 but who knows – at least she looks 70) – gray or rather bald – flabby and nearly blind. And with all this she still seems to exert a tremendous control over her people. She told her grandson to tell Strong that she always liked the white people as they brought plenty of gin & tobacco. For me however she was not too friendly – for I had no gin – and would only sit on her doorstep in the shade despite my flattery about the honor of taking a picture of so rare & powerful a creature – the only (?) woman chiefess in Liberia. Still photographers must not complain and I took the best picture I could under the circumstances

                  At lunch & for an hour after, Dave and I conversed almost entirely in French or german, or both together if necessary, for the pure amusement. During the afternoon I took a few medical pictures and spasmodically chased our admirers off their perches. 3 of our ex porters came thru with the message that they had been canned for lack of work. They also reported that Dunbar & his 5 men were on their way – but I didn’t see them. In the evening Momo cooked us the best chicken soup I have had in Liberia. By the way our table is constructed of film and chop boxes & is quite a success. It also gives a storage shelf <Drawing of constructed table> on each side for butter sugar etc. & then in the evening for lack of light we went to bed early.

                  P.S. at about 500 57 loads came in from Zeanshue with the latest news from the rear – Shattuck & Theiller at Zeanshue – Bequaert at Miamu. As there was it was dark before I could get a messenger, I told them the chief to have a man come at dawn. 

Fri Sept 3^rd Loafed all morning – sent off 20 loads took half a dozen pictures. Sua Koko one of few if not only woman chief. Liberia old fat & decrepit with perpetual headache which Africa says is due to poison. Dave and I conversed for hour in mixed French and German for fun. Have had crowd of damsels parked on our wall all day. Were there last night. About 2 deep and completely black out all light. Keeps us warm at least. In A.M. spent couple of hours making map of our route so far. Did it on separate sheets and pasted them together. About 6 ft. long. In P.M. took pictures of Sua in her compound. Refused to do more than sit in shade on porch for I had no gin & sweet words were a failure. Spasmodically drove away crowd. Bought 5 eggs. Early to bed after supper of afore said chickens. 

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